West Island Way
Section 1 Section 2 Section 3
 


 
The West Island Way

Section 1: Kilchattan Bay—Glencallum Bay—Loch na Leigh—St Blanes—Kilchattan Bay

The first section of the West Island Way is a short loop which begins and ends in Kilchattan Bay. Click the thumbnail map to the right in order to see a larger map of the route. The small thumbnail photos on the rest of the page are also clickable to see full size photographs of the scenes.

The walk begins at the foot of the island in the village of Kilchattan Bay. A majority of walkers arrive by bus from Rothesay so it is worth noting that the bus terminus is 50 feet or so AFTER the stone marking the start of the walk. So you should walk back and touch the stone so you can't be accused of using motorised transport for the first part of the walk! Then turn south again and you'll see the first of the green waymark posts with the golden boot that you'll be very familiar with by the end of the walk.
The southward section of the walk, down to Glencallum Bay, is along raised beaches. In summer there will be high fern along parts of the track. Less than a mile from the start, as you approach the first headland jutting out to sea, is the warning sign that reads 'Very rough track ahead'. The headland is called Creag a Mhara and there's a fence and gate just under it. When you pass through the gate take note of the cave which was excavated years ago and many layers of shell and bone were found, indicating human habitation. You may also see signs of campfires indicating more recent human habitation!
Moving on, you see the distinctive shape of the next headland, known as Hawk's Neb (or Nib). The path down to Hawk's Neb is rough and you have to pick your steps carefully along the bouldered path. Another gate under the headland takes you south of the Neb from where you'll get better photographs of the red sandstone projection. A raven nested in the top part of the Neb for many years.
Past the Hawk's Neb is signpost showing where the track is joined by the path coming downhill from remains of Kelspoke Castle. The path via Kelspoke Castle can be an alternative route for this first section of the walk if you've done it before, but it's best done in the spring or early summer before the fern gets too high. Looking south you can see where the path rises between two mounds at the final headland before Glencallum Bay.
Rounding the headland and getting the first glimpse of the Rubh'an Eun lighthouse is when the view to the south opens up and the horizon becomes marked by sea instead of hills. 'Rubh'an Eun' means the point of the birds, but it's also a good place to keep your eyes open for basking sharks and whales. It's also a favoured spot for fishermen who like to fish from the rocky point, and sometimes pitch their tents beside the lighthouse. Although it's not situated at the Garroch Head, the lighthouse is also known as the Garroch Head Light. Rubh'an Eun is the eastern point of Glencallum Bay, a spectacularly rocky and desolate bay, which is popular as a walk on a sunny day. In good weather you may see a family or two who've come for a picnic or just to sun themselves. Inland from the shoreline there are ruins of an inn which used to supply ships coming into the bay, and also a low, bronze age cairn. If you have time you can look for these.
The path climbs the headland on the other side of Glencallum Bay and is quite steep so go carefully. At the top you are rewarded with breathtaking views over the bay to the Great and Little Cumbrae islands. On Great Cumbrae the houses on Marine Parade can be clearly seen. The lighthouse at the top of Little Cumbrae is now unused but was built in 1750 and was the second pharos (coal burning light) built in Scotland. Turning west, within a few hundred yards the hills of Arran come into view above Garroch Head, the most southerly point of Bute. The elevated track continues along the slope and the height gives great views.
Keep an eye out for the green waymark posts so you don't miss the turn right (north) at Loch-na-Leigh. There are two gaps in the hill on your right: the first gives a beautiful overlook on the little loch and St Blane's hill beyond, and the second is the track down to the loch. The diminutive Loch-na-Leigh is also known as the healing pool or the surgeon's pool, after Sir William Macewen, the famous surgeon who discovered that the loch had medicinal properties. It is a wonderful sanctuary for wildlife and birdwatchers will want to spend time here. Sir William Macewen was born in a house on Ardbeg Road in Rothesay and ended his days at Garrochty Farm just a short distance from Loch-na-Leigh.
The path joins a farm track that is separated from Loch-na-Leigh by a little hill, well, a mound really. It's worth walking along the brow of the hill for the views of the loch. The path follows the farm track for a bit before following a stone dyke uphill towards St Blane's. The short uphill section has a wealth of photogenic scenery: Garrochty, St Blane's Hill, Plan Farm, and Dunagoil. And in lambing season there will be numerous blobs of white cuteness to decorate your landscape photos!
   
The path arrives at the ruins of St Blane's Chapel, site of the 6th century monastic foundation, through a series of 3 gates. This historic site demands some time and attention and it's also a good place to pause and eat your packed lunch (if you brought one). The distance walked to this point is not much over 3 miles, but the enormously varied scenery along the way makes the journey feel like an epic voyage! Pause and absorb the peaceful atmosphere here, eat and gaze over the churchyard to St Blane's Hill, explore the site if you haven't been here before.
Leave the monastic site via the gap in the wall at the north end just where the 'vallum' plaque is located. Cross the field and negotiate a stile and a gate to rejoin the farm track going uphill. There are good views looking back towards St Blanes. About halfway up the straight stretch is a gap in the right-hand slope, this is Kingaven ruined township, thought to have been abandonned around 1800. There's not much left so you need to stay alert or you'll miss it; the outline foundations of 4 buildings can be seen with care in the spring and early summer, later the growth can hide things more. At the top of the track, where it turns right, you enter the field to cross the Glan Callum valley. Terrific views in all directions, but looking north east you'll see your route to Suide Hill.
Cross the field going downhill then through the gate. You'll come to a little footbridge over the stream running through Glen Callum. Climb the uphill slope towards Suide Hill. There good views of the glacier-carved striations on the hill range running down Glen Callum. While you're pausing to catch your breath after the climb, don't forget to look back and congratulate yourself on that taxing bit of route you've completed. If you didn't find it taxing then you're younger than me!
This high part of the walk runs not far below the summit of Suide Hill. If you have the energy, you might want to take the short detour to the summit. Although it's uphill, it's not a climb and can be fairly easily done. Views in all directions are stunning, a much overused word but true in this case.
The downhill section runs beside the stone dyke which separates the wood from the moorland fields used for grazing ponies and sheep. It's a steep descent but don't be tempted to run or you'll never stop. At the bottom of the field is a gate taking you left into the last downhill stretch through the woods to Kilchattan Bay, which finishes in some widely spaced steps. At the bottom you arrive at a track running behind the houses. Turn left if you are continuing the West Island Way, or just to the right is a track leading down to the road if you've finished for the day or want a breather in Kilchattan Bay before continuing.